Tony Aspler pointed us in the direction of this wine: Terrale Sicilia Nero D’Avola 2004. General list at the LCBO for $9.70. A likeable food wine, a bit more expensive than bargain basement Sangiovese and worth the extra $$. Baked goods, tobacco, tar, plum and violet on the nose with decent follow-through on the palate. Needs air–decant it when you start cooking.